By Mia McCroskey

Newport was typically busy for an August afternoon, but fears of terrible jazz festival crowds were unfounded as we arrived for our week of island hopping. Late afternoon boat checkouts went quickly because of Bareboat Sailing’s streamlined process. Skippers focused on learning critical boat systems and finding emergency gear while the checkout staff were available. Most everyone was amused by the many labels on all of the boats, which identified lines and controls, light switches and shower sumps. Some were even instructional: “call charter company by five p.m. Thursday to confirm check-in” was posted beneath every VHF.

Once the loading began, each boat made a dozen or more dinghy runs to get all gear and crew aboard. There was little time for unpacking and food storage before departure for dinner at Tucker’s Bistro. Two boats hailed the water taxi to be shuttled across Brenton Cove to town while the third dinghied ashore and drove so that they could buy ice and get it back to the boat before it melted. Tucker’s provided creative seafood dishes, a great choice of wine, and a few harder libations to the excited but weary crew.

All three boats departed Newport near eight a.m. on Saturday to make the twenty-five mile trip to Block Island’s Great Salt Pond. The breeze was steady and in the teens from the southwest -- the direction of sail, naturally. The fleet took several long tacks to clear Point Judith, then a few more to find the northern tip of Block. The breeze held steady as they trimmed to a comfortable close reach along the west coast of the island and finally doused sail to motor through the narrow channel into the Great Salt Pond.

Champlin’s Marina first and was asked to wait off the dock while they moved boats. Mia McCroskey and Perfect Summer arrived shortly after and joined the smart milling about. Endless Summer , the smallest of the fleet commanded by Jim Hills on his first official outing as skipper, was far enough behind to avoid the milling about. Finally Imagine was summoned to the newly created space at the dock, and then Perfect Summer rafted to her. The Champlin’s dock crew swarmed over each boat in turn to secure lines and attach shore power. Endless Summer arrived in time to make a very tight 180 degree turn to avoid a moored powerboat, the shallows, and Perfect Summer, before landing safely alongside. Within the hour there were similar three deep rafts fore and aft of ours.

That we were relegated to the sailboat dock became very apparent when all crews walked to the main dock and the office to be issued facilities wrist bands: the powerboats were secured stern-to, cheek by jowl, all along the main dock and rafted three deep from the secondary docks. Walkways were awash in thousands of boaters. Running kids, leashed dogs of all sizes, and swaggering sailors of both genders wandered aimlessly and strode purposefully in every direction. The live band at the end of the dock was much louder here than it had been while we were milling, and they served as the focal point for a very happy hour. We clustered around the dock office to pay up and get the bracelets that would give everyone admission to the pool and showers. Once tagged, it was every crew for himself and many elected to make the showers their first stop.

After a calming round of cocktails back on the sailboat dock all three crews gathered their dinners and charcoal and went to the marina's barbecue area, which was already inhabited by dozens of other parties. Imagine’s charcoal crew grabbed a grill and got the coals lit, then realized they had made a novice mistake by pouring the coals on top of the cooking grill. While the crew went for help, another boater discovered the pile of burning coals, swept them into the other half of the large grill, and put his food on to cook. Imagine’s skipper arrived in time to negotiate the reclamation of their fire. Eventually all three boats found grill space amid the rest of the friendly crowd and an excellent dinner was enjoyed by all. The trip leader distributed marshmallows, graham crackers, and chocolate bars for dessert s’mores. A couple of friendly boaters agreed to take group photos of everyone in their trip shirts.

Sunday was to be a lay day for exploring Block Island. It dawned rainy, but the forecast was for a slightly better afternoon. Noon crept by, then one, and the drizzle finally began to abate. By mid-afternoon many crew had walked or taxied to New Shoreham to explore the shops, restaurants, and scenery. Some crew stayed in town for dinner while others found barbecue leftovers to their liking. The weather had dampened plans for cycling all over the island, but our sailors made the best of it anyway.

Monday's journey was to be forty miles to Menemsha, but mooring options in that tiny harbor were slim so alternate plans were explored, including the even longer sail to Vineyard Haven. Endless Summer peeled off the dock just before seven a.m. followed in short order by Perfect Summer and Imagine. Following instructions in the cruising guide, Jim called the Menemsha harbor master just after seven a.m. and was able to reserve mooring space for the fleet.

It was a windless, foggy day, but gradually the fog thinned and lifted giving us sunshine and sparkling water to motor through. Shortly before arriving at Menemsha, Mia read the cruising guide and learned that the maximum size boat on the harbor moorings was forty-five feet. Humm -- the harbor master had accepted the reservation for our forty-six and fortynine footers. Best not to ask too many questions.

The harbor master informed her via VHF that there was one boat on each of our moorings, meaning we should share. “That's how we do it here,” he added as if to forestall an anticipated argument. Fortunately, we’d encountered the same practice in Oak Bluffs a few years ago, so we knew it meant the boats already tied up expected strangers to come raft to them. In fact, we soon saw that both had fenders deployed. Perfect Summer selected the mooring that was further in because the boat there looked a little larger. Crew Otto and Tanya were the only ones aboard Kismet since the skipper and mate were ashore getting lunch. Charlotte tossed the stern line to Tanya, who was standing the cockpit. Tanya caught it, but looked shocked. When Charlotte told her to cleat it she said “I don't want to fall overboard!” Charlotte assured her that we would not let that happen -- a promise that skipper Mia wasn’t certain she could fulfill. But it seemed to bolster Tanya, who held the line secure until Otto returned to the cockpit and took it from her.

Shortly Imagine joined the party, tying up to the other side of Perfect Summer for a lopsided raft. Endless Summer arrived a while later and tied up with Molly on the other mooring.

Shortly the rest of Kismet’s crew returned with plates of lobster from the fish market on the town dock. Now that was an idea! In short order dinner plans for all three boats we’re made.

Everyone soon learned that cellular service was non-existent here at the western end of Martha’s Vineyard. All three boats sent shore parties to the dinghy dock to order the seafood and explore. A few intrepid souls hopped on the Vineyard bus for a ride while most poked into Menemsha's shops. In due time the sky to the northeast darkened and the temperature dropped. Out on the rafts, hatches were closed by the crew still aboard, while those ashore sought cover. While the idea of a cocktail while waiting out the storm sounded grand, those ashore soon learned the Menemsha is a dry town. In the end several took refuge in the seafood market, others in other shops. The squall passed quickly, but was followed by several more.

Eventually dinner hour arrived and the lobster dinners we're ready. Those ashore collected them, bailed dinghies, and returned to the rafts. Between squalls another boat had arrived to join Endless Summer's raft, so the harbor was full. The other mooring was switched from Kismet to Perfect Summer to balance the raft.

Three contented crews cracked shells, slurped oysters, and dipped steamers. As the evening progressed Kismet’s crew crossed over to Perfect Summer , drinks in hand. While Charlotte and Tanya had a serious conversation below, those in the cockpit listened to inebriated first mate Matt’s elaborate and unrealistic plans to make it big in the art world. After his brother Otto took him home most of the crew quietly agreed that it had been a surreal evening.

The following morning plans to sail to Vineyard Haven were scrapped when the forecast was for the same dead air and late afternoon squalls. Crews caught the ten a.m. bus for a day of island exploration. Some visited the historic lighthouses, others rented bikes, and some enjoyed the island’s extensive bus network to see as much as they could. Returning to Menemsha they found new raft partners attached to all boats.

Wednesday was a must-sail day with Cuttyhunk as the destination. Experience suggested that an early afternoon arrival at that island was prudent in order to get a mooring. But first Perfect Summer had to hand over the mooring ball to its new neighbor and Endless Summer had to extract itself from the middle of its raft. Imagine had it easy, simply casting off from Perfect Summer’s side. The fleet headed north for a quick passage through Quick’s Hole into Buzzard's Bay, then a long tack further north in the easing westerly and another tack back southwest into Cuttyhunk harbor. While Endless Summer entered the narrow channel to Cuttyhunk pond, Imagine and Perfect Summer picked up moorings outside.

It was mid-afternoon and the breeze was building. Aboard Perfect Summer some regretted mooring so early, but others took the opportunity for a long afternoon nap. The crew of Endless Summer spent the afternoon exploring tiny Cuttyhunk, and were followed shortly by Imagine . While Perfect Summer was concocting a pasta dinner Imagine’s crew came calling, having eaten ashore. The two boats enjoyed a lovely sunset and cocktails.

The restful afternoon turned out to have been useful the next day as the fleet headed back to Newport in a southerly that was slightly from the west. After a tack to the south to get offshore, Perfect Summer set the sails for a close reach and fell in behind Imagine. Endless Summer happily brought up the rear. Outside of Buzzard’s bay the swells from the south built and the wind gradually picked up. Perfect Summer’s crew suspected Bob was tossing yellow peanut M&Ms overboard. Most crew members had a turn at the helm. As the fleet neared Newport and saw apparent wind in the twenty knot range skilled hands on the helm meant a fantastic ride for everyone.

Imagine ran downwind into Narraganset Bay to play in protected waters north of Newport. Perfect Summer reached on toward Point Judith, then tacked around and returned to the bay where traffic was phenomenal for a Wednesday afternoon. Sailing craft of every size were tacking back and forth amid an equal number of powerboats, making the dead downwind run in twenty knots somewhat perilous. Perfect Summer furled the jib and turned into a powerboat for a tour of the bay. All vessels found their moorings in Brenton Cove, some by a little trial and error despite the sticker with the mooring number placed prominently at the helm.

Another great week was done, but the memories will persist through seasons to come.