Day 1, Monday, February 18th

Most sailors arrived at Placencia airport in groups throughout the day.  Several arrived a day or more earlier, including Bob DuBois and Sally Harrison, who spent several days scuba diving before we embarked.

After the uneventful but nonetheless white-knuckle trip on a commuter plane from Belize City to Placencia, skippers and first mates were given a thorough chart and navigation review by Diego, the assistant manager at the Sunsail base.  We then boarded our two Lagoon 384s, Luna Sea with Skipper Mia McCroskey and First Mate Bob Rainey, and Lovely Cruise with Skipper Julio Menendez (sans his suitcase lost between Houston and Belize City) and First Mate Bruce Gollob.   Boat check-outs were conducted by skippers and mates while the crew organized and stored provisions, including two large watermelons, about ten papayas, and, at least on Luna Sea, twenty four cucumbers, and more celery than anyone cared to count.   That evening we taxied to the Mayan Grill where many of us started our delicious Belizean meal with amazing conch ceviche.

Day 2, Tuesday, February 19th

After an early boat checkout by Sunsail and a hearty breakfast, we hung around waiting for Julio’s luggage, which United Airlines had found.  It was delivered to the marina around 11:30 a.m., by which time various crew had disappeared on invented errands, so we set departure for 12:30.

Our destination was Wippari Cay, about sixteen nautical miles away.  We motored through the very shallow Placencia lagoon, navigating from Sunsail-provided waypoint to waypoint as the depth gauges registered 0 feet depth.  What a relief when the water got thicker and we could raise sails!   While underway, crew Jim Pierson asked skipper Mia what flora and fauna were to be found at their first destination.  Without missing a beat she told him of aquatic camels and elephants.

Both boats enjoyed a beautiful sail to our destination, arriving around 4:00 despite Sunsail’s admonition to drop the hook by 3:30.  Following Diego’s instructions, Luna Sea set two anchors while Lovely Cruise took the mooring that Diego had said not to trust.  Then they dropped their anchor as well.  We settled in to swimming, cocktails, and a relaxing dinner on board.   While Lovely Cruise’s galley crew opted to grill steaks, Luna Sea’s grill was fired up to cook hamburgers that were supposed to have been for lunch.

Day 3, Wednesday, February 20th

Lovely Cruise was up early for bacon and eggs while Luna Sea’s crew toasted bagels over the stove and ate fresh papaya.   Some went for a snorkel off the South side of Wippari Cay and found beautiful coral and colorful fish, but no camels.   Our destination was South Water Cay, about twenty-two nautical miles away.  We departed with fifteen- to twenty-knot winds and one reef in the mainsail.   Part way we were hit with a strong rain squall and 30-knot wind gusts, which made for very exhilarating sailing and a wet helmsperson.  In the lead, Luna Sea’s three deck crew put on life jackets while the rest fled to the salon and shut the door and hatches.

The last portion of the course to the destination had to be made under power and between small cays and some coral heads, so lookouts on the bow were required.  The first squall passed as Luna Sea approached the entrance to the pass through the Cays of Blue Ground Range.  Skipper Mia relieved Cherie Comley, who was soaked, on the helm, and pointed the bow into the channel.  Auxiliary crew Asa Coston and Jim Pierson were summoned from the salon to take up positions forward on the pontoons to watch for shallows.  This was a nearly impossible job given the cloud cover and choppy water surface.  Mia followed the dog-leg channel primarily by monitoring the depth gauge but also based on advice from up forward and waypoints from the chart entered into mate Bob Rainey’s GPS.  They had made the last turn and were heading for South Water Cay when the second squall hit.

And that’s just when Lovely Cruise entered the Blue Ground Range channel.  Visibility was cut to almost nothing.  They hovered in place in the driving rain and wind gusts for about twenty minutes until some visibility returned.  Their two lookouts, Sally Harrison and Randy Hove, were totally drenched and cold, but did a super job of keeping them from the hazards.  After arriving around 4:00 both boats set two anchors, expecting ESE winds of 20 to 25 knots.  A nice, albeit pricey, lobster dinner was arranged for both boats at a Dive Camp that evening.

Day 4, Thursday, February 21st

We decided to stay at South Water Cay for another night since we had not had a chance to explore the island, which is right on the barrier reef.  After breakfast, both crews proceeded to jump in the dinghies and go snorkeling and exploring the island.  Jim was still looking for the camels.  Instead, great snorkeling was found around a small cay off the South side of South Water Cay, right in South Water Cut.  After lunch aboard, crews resumed the snorkeling, exploring, drinking, and overall relaxation.   Aboard Luna Sea Mia’s brand new, custom woven hammock made its first appearance.  Dinner was on board, with grilled fish and rice aboard Lovely Cruise and one of Mia’s pasta creations aboard Luna Sea.

Day 5, Friday, February 22nd

After an early rise and some swimming, we departed at 10:00 for a short sail to the South side of Tobacco Pass for some, as it turned out, not so good snorkeling.  The crew of Lovely Cruise dinghied in and anchored close to the back side of the reef while Luna Sea’s crew opted to swim from where the big boats were anchored.   A couple of stragglers were yelled at by a local boatman who told them they should not swim there, as the locals expect to be able to zoom back and forth unobstructed.  After exploring the vast, shallow, sandy bottom studded with a few coral heads and colorful fish, it was time to get going.   For Lovely Cruise’s crew, trying to get back in the dinghy after snorkeling was not very pretty, with lots of pushing and pulling and arms and legs flapping and flopping onto the dinghy.   This made Luna Sea’s decision to swim look not so dumb after all.  They gathered their crew together for a group passage back -- figuring a larger group would be more obvious to the speed-crazy locals.

After a short lunch, Lovely Cruise had a lovely sail under jib alone to the next destination.  Luna Sea hauled the anchor and set the jib, then the galley crew went to work making sandwiches for all.  John got out his watercolors and began painting portraits of each crew member.   While the evening’s destination was just a few miles away, shallows studded with coral heads required that they sail two or three times the distance, first northwest, then back south, to get to the western side of Thatch Cay.  Although the briefing, chart, and cruising guide spoke of moorings here, the only one present was small and suspect.  Both boats dropped two anchors.

Although Thatch Cay is a private resort, we were all welcomed to a buffet dinner of BBQ Chicken and Fish Ceviche, both delicious.  Before dinner we had cocktails on board while watching a beautiful sunset, followed by cocktails at the resort’s Starfish Bar built on stilts over an enclosed lagoon.

Day 6, Saturday, February 23rd.

Luna Sea crew member John had experienced a couple of set-backs right before the trip: his house caught fire, and a fall resulted in a head injury that required staples in his scalp.   He had left management of house repair to his stalwart wife Janet, but for removal of the staples he needed Belizean medical assistance.  Chris, the manager of Thatch Cay Resort, became his aide and guide in this endeavor.   The resort’s market boat was already planning to make two round trips to Dangriga on the mainland.  John and any companions who cared to were welcome to ride over in the morning and back in the afternoon.  But beyond that, she telephoned a physician and made an appointment for John.   First thing in the morning, John, Jim, Bruce, Corry, and Randy caught the market boat to town.   Bob, Sally, Carole, and Mia worked with Chris to book a two-tank scuba dive back out on the barrier reef where we’d been the previous couple of days. The rest of the crew explored the resort and indulged in some basic R and R.  It was a glorious day with a steady cooling breeze.  The divers returned with tales of more glorious coral and fishes.   John returned with his staples stored in a locally woven basket -- a gift for Janet.  That night some crew went back to the resort for dinner while the rest ate aboard.

Day 7, Sunday, February 24th

The morning dawned dead calm and very hot so we motored to Lagoon Cay where Luna Sea dropped anchors on a very hilly bottom and Lovely Cruise picked up the only mooring.  We promptly jumped into the water to cool down and then explored by dinghy.   Rumor has it that the local manatees like this protected lagoon that is almost entirely enclosed by mangroves -- the “cay” has no solid ground.  No manatees were found -- nor aquatic camels -- just calm water, wading birds, starfish, and bugs.  Some good snorkeling was found north of the cay with beautiful coral, lobsters, star fish, and a couple of barracuda.

That afternoon, the crew of Lovely Cruise hosted Luna Sea for some libations and snacks.  Everyone had a great time, and enough snacks were consumed that the Lovely Cruisers skipped dinner.  The Luna Seas returned to their boat and grilled the steaks that they’d left marinating in papaya and onion.

Day 8, Monday, February 25th

Since we’d learned at the chart briefing that Queen Cay has been designated an off-limits marine preserve, we changed our planned itinerary.  Off to Hatchet Cay -- recommended by Diego in the briefing -- we went.   This cay turned out to be the jewel of our trip.  Tiny, and with a very small resort ashore, it offered the best snorkeling of the trip, and right off the boats.  Lots of pelicans diving for fish also added to the beauty of the place.  Swimming over their anchors, Luna Sea’s skipper and mate were dismayed to find the primary anchor lying on its side on some coral.   Mia free dove several times to haul it onto an adjacent sandy spot.  Then she dove on the secondary anchor, digging its flukes deeper into the sand where it had landed.

The resort’s bar was offering lion fish Ceviche, so crew from both boats decided to go for cocktails and appetizers and a terrific sunset.  On the way back to the boats, Lovely Cruise’s skipper decided to show off by stepping into the dinghy from the dock.  He proceeded to fall on his face with nothing more than his pride hurt.  Once back on the boat, however, he realized that his watch was gone and must have broken from his wrist during the fall.   Dinner was on board with an early bed time.  That night the wind shifted and crew on both boats were up often to monitor their position relative to shore and the other boats.  Fortunately, anchors held. Unfortunately, Luna Sea’s two rodes twisted around one another.

Day 9, Tuesday, February 26th

Another hot, calm day with one last destination to reach before the end of the trip.  But first, Lovely Cruise’s skipper decided to go search for his watch.   He found it after a short dive where the dinghy had been tied the night before.  Luna Sea’s skipper used the boat’s two engines to spin the boat and successfully unwind the two anchor rodes before they hauled them.   The ropes and chains of both anchors followed a twisted path over the bottom in between the coral heads. The GPS tracks show quite a dance as the boat twisted and turned at the direction of those hauling the rode in.

Since all but one sailor were interested in taking the eco tour of Monkey River, we again decided to change the itinerary to anchor at No Name Point, closest safe harbor to Monkey River Town.   We set off under power, with Luna Sea making a fairly straight course across some shallow spots while Lovely Cruise chose a more southerly course with deeper water.  Luna Sea’s crew kept testing the light air, and about mid-day found enough in roughly the right direction to shut off the motor and go for it.   Tacking twice to keep the keels in deeper water, they sailed the rest of the way to the mainland on a perfect course for Monkey Point, arriving just before the loosely observed 3:30 curfew.   Lovely Cruise also found some sailing in between the motoring, getting to No Name point in mid-afternoon.

We found a well protected anchorage in very shallow water.  It was totally surrounded by mangroves, which should have given us a clue about what was to come.   With the boat coming to pick us up at 8:00 the next morning for the trip to the river, after swimming, cocktails, and dinner, we retired early to the worst experience of the trip.

Day 10, Wednesday, February 27th

We all woke up with numerous bites from no-see-ums and other insects.  Even with the usually prohibited, power sucking, cabin fans going, some had had difficulty sleeping since there was no wind and it was very hot.

Groggy and scratching, we climbed aboard the tour boat at 8:00 and proceeded to the river and the tour.  Our guide pointed out a variety of birds and found some sleeping bats on the upriver voyage.  To some, the adventure had the feel of Disneyland’s jungle cruise, so much so that Mia was expecting the guide to pull a pistol and start firing at hippos wiggling their ears.

About four miles up the river they beached the boat and we disembarked for a hike in the jungle to look for black howler monkeys.   Our guides found them lounging high in trees, but no amount of tree banging and human howling would convince them to howl back.  At least we did hear others vocalizing in the distance.  Our guide, who grew up in Monkey River Town, and made the jungle his playground, also pointed out numerous medicinal and edible plants.   On the trip down river, sharp-eyed Asa spotted a crocodile in the shallows that the guides missed.  It was so still some of us thought it just supported the Disney feel of the place.

We got back to the boats in time for lunch and then raised anchors for our next destination: Placencia harbor.   Lovely Cruise motored north and arrived in mid-afternoon, while Luna Sea decided to sail for a while.   Both boats found the holding ground in the most crowded anchorage of the trip very difficult, with each crew having to drop the hook several times to make it stick.  The crew of Lovely Cruise went ashore to explore the town of Placencia and make arrangements for a group dinner that night.

In the early evening, both boats met at Yoli’s dock bar, which turned out to be closed. So they walked inland to the Barefoot Beach bar for cocktails and then had dinner next door at Omar’s Seafood place.  Many of us had conch steak in a mild coconut curry sauce with rice and beans, while some opted to share orders of a mixed dish of barracuda, conch, shrimp, snapper, and grouper in the same sauce.  Before we were served, John decided to take a self-guided tour of the kitchen where he was welcomed by the staff, busy pounding the conch steaks.  It was a great meal seasoned with stories of trip experiences.

Day 11, Thursday, February 28th

After a leisurely breakfast, members of both crews took the dinghies to town for shopping and wi-fi use.   After lunch, Lovely Cruise hauled anchor and made the trip back to Sunsail’s base.   Luna Sea’s crew lingered in the harbor swimming, reading, and napping, waiting to hear Lovely Cruise’s radio call to Sunsail that they were outside the marina before hauling their own anchor for the last time.  The Sunsail team met each boat outside, putting a pilot aboard and taking the dinghy away.   The crew were relegated to line handling as the skilled Belizeans parked the wide, unwieldy boats in narrow slips cheek by jowl with one another.  Everyone spent some time preparing for an early departure the next day.   That night, a group went to a near by Mexican restaurant, while the rest had a must-go dinner and tried (but failed) to drink everything that was left from the trip.

Day 12, Friday, March 1st

Everyone but Mia, who had decided to stay an extra day to decompress, caught the Tropic Air white knuckle flight to Belize City and then back home, where most arrived very late that night or early the next morning.

Belize is a bright gem for sailing and snorkeling. Her people are friendly and polite, and in some cases ready to go above and beyond to help a sailor in need. They are proud of their nation, and protective of its resources. This attitude pays off with vast, healthy coral reefs and large, beautiful fish. In all, I believe that everyone had a fantastic time, and no noticeable mishaps were experienced.