Tuesday Feb. 11, most participants made their way from the US to Tortola uneventfully via ferry from St. Thomas, with a few arriving earlier to spend some leisure time on the island. All except for Julio, our trip leader, who took a 5am train to Newark Airport that never made it. The train was delayed for 2 hours due to icing on cables and when it started to move again, they announced it would not stop at EWR terminal. Julio missed the flight and after much cursing and lots of money, rebooked flights to arrive in Tortola the following morning.

Saint Thomas to Road Town high-speed ferry

Crew of Marakery stowing provisions

Upon arrival, crews, sans Julio, were directed to our boats, Marisa Too, with Julio as skipper and Bruce Gollob as First Mate, Marakery, with Bob Rainey as skipper and Don Schlenger as FM and Alimata 4, with Larry Sherwood as skipper and Jack Buckley as FM. Marisa Too and Marakery had opted for pre-provisioning so they checked out the boats and stashed food and beverages away, while Alimata 4 checked out the boat and prepared for a food shopping spree the next morning. After drinks, crews sauntered to dinner at one of two restaurants in the marina.

Wednesday Feb. 12, skippers, sans Julio, and FMs participated in Sunsail’s orientation, chart briefing and boat check out. Crew of Alimata 4 proceeded to self-provision. The provisions were delivered to the marina by taxi and were loaded into a golf cart for delivery to the boat (much better than the big manual carts). Crew of Marakery visited “Cash and Carry”, a mini-Costco-like store and discovered an attractive price for a bundle of three 1.75 L bottles of rum; it was a tough decision but the fact that they came in plastic bottles was the deciding factor!

Julio finally arrived by 11:30 am, and found that his FM and crew had done a superb job storing food, water and beverage, and preparing the boat for the trip. After a short skipper’s meeting, we finally departed around 1 pm and headed to our first destination, the Bight on Norman Island.

Winds were around 20 knots from the east so we had a very pleasant broad reach sail, arriving there around 3 pm, and picked up moorings. Marisa Too picked the wrong color mooring the first time so had to drop it and pick the right mooring a second time. All boats relaxed while the crew of Marisa Too took the dinghy to snorkel the caves while the other two chilled on the boats. All crews had dinner on board. Marisa Too had planned on grilled steaks and baked potato, but the FM could not get the charcoal bag lit (found out later that bag was wet) so the steaks were done on a frying pan. FM was very upset and felt the incident had tarnished his grilling reputation. All ended well and we had a very nice dinner. The grill on Marakery lit without a hitch, although it was only later that they discovered there actually was a designated side of the charcoal bag to be on top; the grilled jerk chicken was great for dinner and there was enough left over for lunch the next day.

We had planned to visit the infamous Willie T after dinner, but never discussed at what time. So, Marisa Two went around 7 pm and danced, drank and watched young women get their breast and behinds tattooed. By 8:45 or so, none of the other boats had arrived so Marisa Two crew went back to the boat and retired for the night. The crew of Marakery made it to the Willie T by 9 pm and since the other boats were not there, did not stay very long.

Thursday Feb. 13, our original plans called for a sail to Marina Cay, across from Trellis Bay. Bob R. had heard of a nice snorkeling place named Alice’s Wonderland on Ginger Island, so it was decided to stop there to snorkel and then go to Marina Cay. Winds were blowing 20 to 25 knots from the East which was more or less where we were going. Marakery left first and made it to Ginger Island only to find out that the location had very rough conditions and not suitable for snorkeling. Alimata 4 decided to go outside and found very rough conditions and backtracked to the inside where it was less rough. Marakery and Marisa Too decided to go directly to Marina Cay, but they could not make radio contact with Alimata 4 due to her radio malfunctioning.

Marakery and Marisa Too made it to Marina Cay and picked up moorings. After motor sailing to Ginger Island, Alimata 4 did not find the other boats there so they too headed for Marina Cay. Finally, radio contact was made again and Alimata 4 arrived and picked up a mooring near the other boats. The crews relaxed, took a dinghy ashore, or went snorkeling. Cell phone washing commenced with a Marakery dinghy trip to the dock to get ice, there was a ‘plunk’ sound when getting back into the dink and although the clear water allowed rapid recovery, the salt water destroyed the crew’s cell phone. Dinner again was on board, with Alimata 4 having Helen B’s famous Pork Loin, brought with her from US and grilled to perfection by Dexter. Marisa Too had grilled chicken and the FM made sure that the grill would light by buying a large bottle of charcoal fluid, which he used abundantly. After a magnificent fire, the chicken was grilled superbly and the FM got back his tarnished reputation. Marakery’s crew enjoyed grilled Mahi-Mahi again realizing that we could have ordered provisioning from Sunsail for one less person and still have lots of food.

Friday Feb. 14 (Full Moon), our plans for the day were to go to The Baths until early afternoon and then return to Trellis Bay for the Full Moon party. However, after seeing all the masts already at Trellis Bay before leaving Marina Cay, it was decided to proceed to the Bitter End after The Baths.

We departed for The Baths around 8 am and motored to a mooring there. Rules have changed here, and you are not allowed to take dinghies ashore using engines. Crews had to tie the dinghies at a prescribed area and swim ashore. Crew of Marisa Too was dropped off by the skipper at a location where they could use the demarcation rope to help them reach shore. The crew of Marakery tied their dinghy and swam ashore, while the crew of Alimata 4 dropped some crew at another beach without access to The Baths. Later it was found that you could row your dinghy close to the beach to drop or pickup crew, so the skipper of Alimata 4 went to pick up the crew left at the other beach.

All boats rowed to the beach to pick up their crews when they were ready to go. After lunch, all boats left en route to North Sound on Virgin Gorda and a Bitter End mooring. Winds were 15 to 18 knots from North of East, so all boats had a delightful sail. After picking up moorings, some crews went ashore to explore and to find showers.

The plan called for dinner ashore tonight, so we checked with the hotel restaurant about reservations. It was found that they were having a seafood buffet at the low price of $65 per person. Not being so hungry, we all opted for the more reasonable Pub, which had burgers and local food (Roti). We all had dinner and drinks there. The Roti was found to be very good and everyone had a good time.. The Pub had Wi-Fi, so everyone was able to catch up on emails. It is sad we are now so dependant on these devices even when on a trip to get away from it all.

Winds picked up considerably that night, and Marisa Too saw a reading of 35 knots on the wind instrument.

Saturday Feb. 15, was a lay day, so we stayed on the moorings at the Bitter End. Some crew took the resorts shuttle and a taxi to Spanish Town, some went to explore the resort and for a long walk and others just relaxed. Some of the crew of Alimata 4 (Larry, Kristin, Dexter) t ook a snorkel tour to Mosquito Rock. They saw rays and turtles from the boat, but under water, few fish, but some nice coral. Outside the reef, Dex encountered a ball of unknown makeup. After swiping at it, he got squid “s--t” (ink) in the face and managed to cloud up the area for everyone. The boat driver could see a yard across disturbance from the panicked squid.

Lunch at Bitter End Yacht Club

Snorkeling at Prickly Pear Island

All boats had dinner on board and, since there was nothing going on ashore, a BYOB get together was planned on Marisa Too. After drinks, snacks and solving many world issues, each boat retired for the night. The wind piped up again tonight and it sounded like a freight train was running through the rigging. Good to be on a mooring.

Sunday Feb. 16, after breakfast and morning showers ($3 for 4 minutes), we departed en route to Anegada. This is a very low island and totally surrounded by reefs, so care must be taken upon arrival. Winds were 25 knots from the East, so with reefed sails we had a delightful sail.

Marakery arrived first and found that there were no moorings available so we all had to scramble to find an anchoring location. Alimata 4 found space by the catamarans with depth gage showing 0 and a 6’ offset. Marakery found a location and stayed there, while Marisa Too anchored near a 200’ yacht that started swinging towards it. So, anchor up to find a new location. After trying 2 more times elsewhere and a heated discussion with a charterer who thought we were too close, Marisa Too finally found a good place where the anchor held. We had no land protection from the wind, so it was a little bouncy.

Alimata 4’s crew decided to go ashore, only to find that the town (The Settlement) was 5 miles away and you needed a taxi to get to the snorkeling. Larry did find out a few factoids – population 350, school has grades K – 12, goats are exported to Tortola (no goat ribs here), there are a few donkeys (sold to farmers on Tortola). Upon returning to Alimata 4, Larry managed to let the dinghy escape. He swears that Kristin pushed him in to rescue it. One less Sunsail cell phone and a wet wallet later, the dinghy was secured. Kristin’s version of the story is that she suggested to Larry that he should jump in.

We had planned to have a lobster dinner ashore, so reservations were made and food orders placed. Because of the waves, getting into or out off dinghy from/to the boat was not easy. Moreover, ride to and from the hotel became somewhat wet, so most people wore their wind breaker trip memento.

Dinner was at the Anegada Reef Hotel – on the beach. Vivian Wheatley, the manager, arrived from England in 1970, not finding a hotel management position in her native land, and opened the hotel. She has been here ever since (web site said 1976 – with her husband – but island time is only approximate – applies to days, months and years).

Anegada Sunset

Anegada Reef Hotel – grilled lobster on the beach

There was a discussion about staying two nights to get some great snorkeling in, but someone checked the Tripadvisor website and the reviews were not good. It seems that the reefs have struggled over the last 20 years. It was decided to leave for Great Harbor in Jost Van Dyke for good snorkeling in adjacent White Bay.

Monday Feb. 17, anchor up at 9:00AM – Alimata 4 was stuck on the bottom five minutes later. Jack managed to wiggle them off (in front of an unhappy Sunsail skipper on the next boat over). They contacted Sunsail via Larry’s cell. They encouraged someone to dive & check out the bottom at their earliest convenience. Cabin sole was dry, no panic.

Winds were at 12 to 15 knots from North of East, so we all started running or broad reaching. After an hour, the wind slowed to 5 knots, so engines were started. Ten to fifteen minutes later, the wind picked up again to fifteen knots, so engines were turned off. We had a real nice broad reach sail to Great Harbor where a slow jibe took us directly into the bay. Marisa Too arrived first and picked up a Foxy’s mooring. Since it was a Monday, there were many available moorings. Alimata 4 and Marakery arrived shortly thereafter and also picked up moorings.

Plans were made to go snorkeling in White Bay the next day via taxi. Dinner was on board. Afterwards, the crew of Marisa Too and Marakery took their dinghy to the world famous Foxy’s, where music was being played by a DJ. We proceeded to drink and dance the night away. Return to boats was uneventful and sleep came quickly.

Tuesday Feb. 18, after breakfast, Alimata 4 dropped the mooring before 9:00 and purchased 50 gallons of water for Tank 1. Back to the mooring and with crew of Marisa Too, took a taxi ride to White Bay and The Soggy Dollar. Marakery’s crew took their dinghy around “Pull And Be Damn Point” (honest, Larry checked the cruising guide) instead of going by land.

The west side of White Bay promised to be best, but some were discouraged by what appeared to be rough water there. Dex & Kristin did snorkel there and found the swells to be no problem. Gertrude’s was recommended by Bruce’s taxi driver and it did not disappoint. Larry and crew spent hours there and signed the ceiling with our website and date. Hopefully we get some response to this advertising.

White Bay – Jost Van Dyke

Ceiling PR at Gertrude’s

Crew of Marisa Too, Carol and Karen had arrived by taxi with Bruce, their FM, and they went snorkeling while Bruce hung out with Alimata 4 at Gertrude’s. The Alimata 4 crew left him snoozing next to the bar and took a taxi back to Foxy’s. Carol and Karen came back, could not find Bruce, and returned to Foxy’s sans Bruce. When they realized Bruce was not back, they called Gertude’s and Olga (barmaid extraordinaire) woke him up. His crew refused a ride back with Alimata 4’s dinghy and decided to wait at Foxy’s for him (he had the dinghy key).

Dinner was had on board by all boats. During dinner, a ship from WindStar cruise line, Wind Surf, arrived and lit up the bay. Crews from Marisa Too and Marakery returned to Foxy’s for more dancing. Sadly, the place was crowded with passengers from the cruise ship and the music was not as good as the night before. After an hour or so, it was decided to go back to the boats. That night, we experienced some squalls with heavy winds and rain. Again, glad to be on moorings.

Wednesday Feb. 19, our last day of sailing, we decided to stop at the Indians off Norman Island for some snorkeling. Winds were blowing 25 to 30 knots from the East, so boats deeply reefed their sails. Alimata 4 and Marakery decided to motor sail to make the cut between West End Tortola and Great Thatch Island, right choice, while Marisa Too sailed leaving Great Thatch Island to port. After making the turn into St. Francis Drake Channel, Marisa Too was smacked with the wind on its face and waves 3 to 5 feet high. So it was time to motor-sail while tacking up the channel. Marakery arrived at the Indians and picked up a mooring. Moorings were in short supply and really close to the rough rocks. Alimata 4 managed to pick the last one on the southern end after the third try. It was more than a little unnerving to bring the boat so close to the rocks. Marisa Too arrived shortly after and was lucky to find a recently vacated mooring close to the snorkeling area.

<--- Great snorkeling at The Indians.

All boats proceeded to snorkel the area, which was deemed to be the best snorkeling of the entire trip. After lunch, we all set sail for our last leg of the trip to Road Town, Tortola and the Sunsail Marina. Winds were still strong, but still a good sail.

Back at the marina, boats proceeded to pack, clean and clear the boats in preparation for early departure the next day. Some ate ashore, while others had “must go”. After dinner, we had an impromptu get together on Marakery, where there was some trading - beer for rum. As usual, some boats had quite a bit of food and other stuff left over. The crew of Marakery ventured into Road Town for dinner at a small restaurant called Le Grande. The menu was simple, the food was superb and the saxophone player completed the dining experience!

Thursday Feb. 20, found most of the crews taking early taxis for a 10 A.M. ferry departure from Tortola to St. Thomas for the flight home. Others waited for a later departure for a flight to San Juan.

All in all, it was a nice trip, and from feedback received, most had a good time. All participants substantially contributed to the success of the trip, but special kudos go to Bob Rainey, Larry Sherwood, Bruce Gollob, Jack Buckley and Don Schlenger for the work as skippers and First Mates and their attention to the safety of the crews. We think that trip leader, Julio Menendez was too modest with the last kudos so we want to thank Julio for an enjoyable trip while the Northeast USA received 14” of snow!