While researching possible itineraries for this trip, we learned that the wind starts to shift, starting in February, from the ENE to the SE. Winds can be fickle, but as we boarded our boats at the Tortola Sunsail base, the winds were in our favor. 

About half of the group flew into Charlotte Amalie, USVI on Saturday, February 6th.  The rest had traveled earlier in the week. The entire group, except Steve K. who took the earlier noontime ferry, met up at the ferry terminal in Charlotte Amalie. We started taking photos and talking non-stop pretty much from that point on. The sun was beginning to set by the time we emerged from the Tortola, BVI ferry terminal and sought a cab to take us to the Sunsail base.  Some folks were able to call home and learned that temperatures in New Jersey were in the teens and snow was forecast.  We all nodded gravely and smiled broadly. It was 84 degrees with 70 percent humidity, the boats all bobbed happily at their slips and there were beautiful tropical flowers in bloom everywhere we looked, not to mention large shower facilities, shops, and restaurants a short walk away. Our day of travel was ending very nicely. 

Six excited and somewhat travel-weary folks boarded Marissa Too, a Sunsail 44 sloop and another seven carried winter coats and bags onto Kama Hele, a Sunsail 38 catamaran. The sloop, skippered by Steve Krakauer, had Joel Mack as First Mate. Bob Rainey commanded the helm of the catamaran, with Rudy Vallejo as provisional First Mate. Opportunities for co-mingling the crews were frequent during the trip and we enjoyed many shared experiences.

L-R:  Mary Ann Gordon, Bob Rainey, Joel Mack, Charlotte Chappel, Rupinder Singh, Jerry Peck, Laurie Kielmovitch, Walt Wronka and Izak Kielmovitch.  Not in photo:  Rudy & Kim Vallejo, Steve Krakauer and Jitender Singh (photographer).

That first night was a blur of activity. The Skippers and First Mates attended the chart briefing and all provisions had to be stored. Finding places to store extra water proved a bit of a challenge, but creative thinking prevailed. After deciding upon sleeping arrangements and storing gear/clothing, both crews headed to the dock-side restaurant to seek much needed nourishment and beverages. 

The next morning, Sunday, after some last minute head repairs on Marissa Too, we were on our way to The Indians before noon in anticipation of some wonderful snorkeling. However, due to wave and current conditions, the actual experience was far less. Our word of the day - turbid:  cloudy, opaque, or thick with suspended matter, which the water was. After lunch we headed to the night anchor at The Bight, Norman Island. We had no problem finding moorings and soon after dinner, both boats were quiet. It was Super Bowl Sunday and aboard Kama Hele, Jitender was able to get his cell phone to stream from a Verizon tower on USVI and they watched the first half of the game and the half time show before moving into vacation mode and watching the stars instead.

Monday, February 8th dawned clear and sunny. A local man in outboard skiff stopped by selling ice and some other provisions.  He did well at both boats and our provisions were expanded to include freshly made banana bread. Soon after breakfast, we motored around a point of land to The Caves, reportedly another very good place to snorkel.  We were pleasantly surprised to find the water here much clearer and lots of fish, coral and sea life. Our crews met up in the water off the caves and enjoyed exploring the area together for awhile.

After a late lunch, we headed over to Jost Van Dyke, with some good sailing along the way.  Again, picking up a mooring ball was no problem. Foxy’s is a must-do when in harbor - and both crews complied. The music, food and atmosphere of Foxy’s again did its magic and soon everyone was up and dancing. The crew of Marissa Too arrived early and had a personal tour and history lesson on the bar/restaurant from Foxy himself.

Tuesday morning we had a quick breakfast and headed around to Long Bay to check out the Bubbly Pool, a natural jacuzzi. Mooring balls were available and didn’t require a charge if not staying overnight, which we weren’t, as our planned overnight harbor was White Bay at Guana Island. Most of both crews headed into shore and walked the rough trail, complete with poison trees, to the Bubbly Pool and enjoyed it’s soothing waves.

By early afternoon, we were all back on the boats and headed to Guana Island. This was essentially a beat to windward and Marissa Too left the cat in its dust. It is a private island, owned by a resort, but the public can utilize the beach up to the high water mark. Our two boats picked up mooring balls about 3:30 pm. Four of the crew from Marissa Too decided to take advantage of the opportunity to explore the beach.

The beach landing, however, was less than successful. Just as we were about to touch shore, a wave appeared and swamped the dinghy. We are forever grateful to the wonderful staff from Guana Island Hotel, Kevin and Trevor, along with a resort guest that walked in waist high surf with Joel Mack, pulling the water-filled and very heavy dinghy down the beach to the resort’s dock. At the dock, about 300 yards from where we beached, the water did not just look calm, it really was calm. The dink was tipped up to drain it and the engine made secure. We all breathed easier when the engine started on the first pull. The crew aboard Kama Hele were unaware of this ordeal, and so were disappointed when their skipper vetoed taking the dinghy ashore because he couldn’t see a calm area to land. Bob was a little afraid of a mutiny until word of Marissa Too’s ordeal was received.

Our sail on Wednesday to Anegada from White Bay, Guana Island was even better than expected. Marissa Too, off the mooring ball at 7:20 AM, sailed with jib only and averaged 7 knots all the way! We arrived ahead of our planned time and picked up a mooring ball at The Settlement. Kama Hele, caught up a short time later and picked up a ball nearby. Bob and his entire crew set off soon after arrival for the Anegada Beach Club where they enjoyed the pool, beach and a charming restaurant. The Marissa Too crew moved slowly that day and didn’t move off the boat until about 4 pm. Bob’s crew climbed aboard the pick-up truck (outfitted with bench seats and railings) for the ride back to the dinghy dock and dinner on the boat as Steve’s crew disembarked in time for a beach walk and tour of the facility before dinner at the beach club. Ships passing etc.

Thursday was the planned lay-day in Anegada, and Rainey’s crew again was anxious to make the most of it. Four of the crew from Marissa Too took the dinghy to shore and joined them to share a pick-up truck taxi out to Loblolly Beach, known for some good snorkeling. There are coral reefs right off the beach and everyone was in the water as soon as they could gear-up.  Again, however, the swells became strong and the water cloudy. Most people were back out of the water within 20 minutes. Walt Wronka lasted the longest and enjoyed it immensely. Once everyone was accounted for, we all headed down a wooden walkway from the beach to the Big Bamboo restaurant for lunch and refreshments. There was a gentleman at the bar using a magnifying glass to burn graphics into pieces of driftwood. His work was displayed throughout the bar area. There was the thought that he was proof that one really could stay too long in the BVIs.

The hammocks in the shade were a draw for many after lunch, as well as the showers.  It was a very nice afternoon but we couldn’t linger as we had to reassemble on land for the planned group grilled lobster dinner at Cow Wreck Beach restaurant that evening.

Anegada is 10 miles long by 2 ½ miles wide and its highest point of land is 28 feet - hence it’s name which translates to “the drowned island”. Cow Wreck Beach is on the northeast or ocean side of the island. Guarded by a straight line of reefs just off shore, the beaches make sweeping curves to form protected lagoons. Our group agreed, the setting was perfect. Our dinner was served family style on a long table set up under a roof, but open to the beach. The menu consisted of grilled lobster, fish, and multiple side dishes and lots of cool drinks. A visiting family of fellow sailors took our group photo with such enthusiasm, we couldn’t help but smile.

Left to right:  Joel Mack, Rudy Vallejo & Izak Kielmovitch.  Top row:  Jitender Singh, Bob Rainey, Mary Ann Gordon, Steve Krakauer, Laurie Kielmovitch, Rupinder Singh, Kim Vallejo, Walt Wronka, Charlotte Chapel and, in the back, Jerry Peck.

Friday, February 12th, both boats were off their mooring balls by 9:30 AM and enjoyed a very good sail to Virgin Gorda and the Bitter End Yacht Club. Again, we picked up mooring balls close together. The Kama Hele crew dined on land and Marissa Too decided they needed to start using up provisions, so stayed on board and enjoyed a very nice dinner of grilled pork chops, carrots with a dill-butter sauce and pear tart for dessert. The card game of Cards vs Humanity had the Marissa Too crew laughing so hard and loud they heard us on the neighboring boats! Thanks, Joel, for bringing those.

Saturday morning, both boats were underway early heading to The Baths in order to pick up a mooring ball at this very famous BVI destination. However, picking up a ball was not a problem before 10 am. Our two dinghies scouted out the landing areas. We vetoed the first one and headed further along to Devil’s Bay. Dinghies were made secure to the float line and everyone tumbled into the water for the swim to shore. A few swam the distance, but most took advantage of a line running from the dinghy line to just before the breakers at the beach.

After making our way through the labyrinth of rocks, we hiked up to the Top of the Baths.  The walk dried us off and provided an opportunity to enjoy a beverage and some food in the shade.   Once all were back in the dinghy (which took a little help from our friends) we headed back to the boats to make ready for the sail to our night anchor at Marina Cay.   Both boats had a good sail to this oft praised calm anchorage and picked up mooring balls.  That evening the crew of Marissa Too dined at Pusser’s restaurant and a few enjoyed a nice walk before dinner.   The crew of Kama Hele dined on board putting the grill to good use.

The British phone booth at the dock Marina Cay

Our peaceful night was destroyed about 2:00 AM when Steve and Walt, sleeping on deck, heard voices very close.  Yikes…...the stern of a large catamaran was three feet from us and coming closer!  It had been well in front of us when we retired for the night.  The wind and current had changed and boats were being scrambled all around the mooring field.  There were flashlights and voices raised for the next hour.   Rainey’s cat had a similar experience, with nearby boats being pushed very close.   Finally, a little after 3:00 AM, it started to rain and boats settled into safe distances apart and, basically all facing into the wind again.  All hands headed for a quiet, dry place to sleep. 

Valentine’s Day, Feb 14, was a sunny day and on Steve’s boat, Charlotte made the crew very happy with bacon & eggs for breakfast.  The bacon was cooked to perfection!

On Kama Hele, breakfast was French toast and bacon. We were underway by 10:30 AM with both jib and mainsails raised once out in the open water and heading for Great Harbor, Peter Island. We noted an approaching rain squall from the east and south. Steve suggested we turn back in the direction we had just come from in order to enjoy the fairer weather and wait for the squall to pass by. His crew agreed and soon Kama Hele did likewise. The tack was a good one and our speeds increased to 8 knots. Once the weather cleared towards Peter Island, we turned and continued on our original course. Another squall did give us a little rinse off, but was gone as quickly as it came and the wind it brought had everyone smiling as we heeled and increased speed. We picked up mooring balls at Great Harbor. The Kama Hele crew were quickly into their dinghy and heading to shore with snorkel gear. Marissa Too decided the rain squalls weren’t done yet and decided to stay onboard and play “famous lines from movies” trivia game. When the Kama Hele crew returned about 40 minutes later in the rain, they reported a good snorkeling spot cut short by the rain. The following morning, February 15^th, our last full day in the BVIs, the Kama Hele crew led an expedition ashore to explore before we headed back to the Sunsail base that afternoon. They  walked to a private, but very welcoming resort - Deadman’s Beach Resort - and enjoyed the lovely walkways and beach there. As they floated and talked, no one said it….but all knew this was the last time in warm Caribbean waters for quite some time. We had shared so many good times, no one wanted it to end.

It took less than two hours to get back to Sunsail base, and again a rain squall with high winds made us turn just before the bay and head back out for a while to allow the rain to pass by.  Rainey’s cat and crew were having such a good time sailing in the rain and wind we weren’t sure they were going to turn around ... but they did and passed us waving furiously.  All on Kama Hele had dealt with, for lack of a better term, a head cold and cough. One crew member who shall remain nameless arrived sick with it and by day three was feeling better, but everyone else was coughing. That last day in the rain they were all well and breathing normally and they enjoyed the heck out of that final sail into the harbor.

We had a Must Go’s party that evening at the dock aboard Marissa Too, and arranged cabs to the airport in the morning.  I took photos that evening, but they are too dark. This group shot, taken by Jitender Singh while we were in a bay and co-mingling for Steve’s traditional pina colada cocktail hour better captures the group. It was a great group of people, always ready for something new, undaunted by problems and willing to share the work, as well as the fun.

L to R:  Rudy Vallejo, Izak & Laurie Kielmovitch, Walt Wronk, Steve Krakauer, Charlotte Chappel, Joel Mack, Kim Vallejo, Rupinder Singh, Mary Ann Gordon, Bob Rainey and kneeling, Jerry Peck.  Not pictured (because he took the photo) - Jitender Singh