The British Virgin Islands Have It All

Mar 17

Lots of wind, waves, and rain did not detract from the adventure

This trip to the Caribbean more than lived up to our expectations. The weather was wonderful, with highs in the 80s, dropping down to the 70s at night. The wind was just as good, averaging around 20 knots from the east, with gusts approaching 30 knots. We had showers on most days, but they were brief, usually less than 20 minutes, and just served to help us appreciate the sunny skies the rest of the time.

Two winter-weary crews arrived at the BVI Yacht Charters in Road Town, Tortola, on February 3, anxious to board our nearly new boats: Reventador II, a 47-foot Dufour 470, and Tam Elli, a 44-foot Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 440.

Norman Island

After provisioning, we received our boat briefs and left dock around 3 p.m. for a short 7.5 NM sail to The Bight at Norman Island. Arriving around 5 and picking up mooring balls, Tam Elli’s crew dinghied to shore for supper at Pirates Bight Beach Bar & Grille, while Reventador crew stayed on board to be entertained by the surrounding boats and the party on the Willie T, a floating restaurant infamous for bad behavior aboard.

Great Harbor, Jost Van Dyke

After breakfast on Monday morning, we headed off on an 11.5 nm sail to Jost Van Dyke. On the way, we stopped at the Indians, a group of islets known for their snorkeling. Reventador’s crew had trouble picking up a mooring ball in the 20+ knot breeze and strong current, and lost a boat hook in the effort. We were worried that we would never see it again, but then, as Mary Ann put it,

When what to our wondering eyes did appear,
But Super Joel in his black ninja gear!
He retrieved the hook and returned it with care,
Then off he swam, with our thanks shouted sincere.

After snorkeling and lunch, we sailed off to Jost Van Dyke, home of the famous Foxy’s, a beach bar well known to the club from previous trips.

After supper, we found that Reventador’s dinghy wouldn’t start. After some futile attempts to revive the motor, Steve and Joel ferried both crews, and the dead dink, back to the boat.

Leverick Bay, Virgin Gorda

Our longest planned sail of 24 nm was to Leverick Bay Marina in North Sound, Virgin Gorda. We experienced some great sailing, with boat speeds (allegedly) reaching close to 9 knots.

We spent the night and the next day at the marina while we explored Virgin Gorda. This island is home to one of the must-see attractions of the BVIs — The Baths, a national park consisting of a series of spectacular rock formations on the water’s edge. Many photos were taken.

On the way back to the marina from the Baths, we stopped at Hog Heaven Bar/Grill for lunch. This place is close to the peak of this mountainous island and offers spectacular views of the harbor below. They also offer some decent barbeque.

Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbor, Spanish Town - Cooper Island

The plan for Friday was to sail to Anegada. However, this leg would be 14.5 NM through mostly unprotected waters, and the charter company required us to get their okay before heading out. Since winds were predicted to be in the mid-twenties with five-foot seas, they declined to give us permission.

Fortunately, the islands do not lack for options, and we spent the morning sailing to nowhere, stopped off of Great Dog Island for some snorkeling, and then to Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbor in Spanish Town. This marina has been rebuilt since Hurricane Irma and is highly recommended. We had supper at the Chez Bamboo restaurant, which has a lovely ambiance and a highly varied menu. Maybe too varied – it took some of us an hour to get our food, while others at the table were on dessert.

RMS Rhone, Cooper Island and Back to the Bight

On Saturday, Reventador stopped above the RMS Rhone, a British mail ship that sank in a hurricane on October 29, 1867, with the loss of 120 passengers and crew. It was featured in the 1977 movie The Deep. Some of the wreck is too deep for snorkeling, but we were able to see the ship’s propeller, anchor, and other features. Meanwhile Tam Elli decided to head back to the Indians for some more snorkeling, with the aim of returning to The Bight.

After visiting the RMS Rhone, Reventador’s crew found that the reserved balls at Manchioneel Bay on Cooper Island were snapped up within a couple of minutes after the Boaty Ball app opened up reservations at 7:00 AM but they did manage to snag a first-come-first-served mooring at noon, and spent the afternoon exploring the beach and doing some more snorkeling.

Tam Elli did manage to get a mooring ball at the Bight after a 28 nm sail, and took one of the mooring balls there. Must-go suppers were on tap for both crews.

Road Town

Since many of the crew had early ferry reservations on Monday, we returned to the charter company docks on Sunday. This allowed us to spend a slow afternoon de-provisioning and preparing for departure on Monday morning. Coincidentally, we were able to head to the bar at the Moorings complex to watch the Eagles spank the Chiefs in the Super Bowl.